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Tag: tech

  • A Computer Monitor as a TV? 🤔

    A Computer Monitor as a TV? 🤔

    FYI, here’s a better breakdown of this post. Leaving this here for context.


    Sooo, I just got a 4K monitor to use as a dedicated display for my Nintendo Switch. Previously I had the console plugged into an HDMI switch, which also connected my laptop and Windows desktop to the same monitor.

    The display situation worked great for lazy people, but in order to have audio come from the Switch, I needed to manually plug speakers into the audio port (because, noooo my monitor does not have speakers. I get this question a lot for some reason). I have a Y-adapter that splits the audio cable between my desktop and laptop. And in order for my Switch to have sound, I would unplug the laptop audio cable into the Switch. And because the cable wasn’t long enough, I had to move the Switch dock onto the space where my desktop mouse lives. And would have to move it aside when I needed to use my desktop. So I decided it was time for an upgrade.

    This was the monitor I ended up getting. It supports up to 4K, and ironically the Switch doesn’t do 4K. 😀 But it’s working great so far! I finally get to have a “TV” in my room!

    Why a monitor and not a TV?

    I chose a monitor instead of a TV, because well…I don’t have a lot of space. And the only decent TVs I could find where the giant 55in displays. The space I had planned only had room for 32in.

    Also, I learned that there are no “dumb TVs” anymore. All TVs made these days come with its own built-in OS and media player. I never use the built-in media player on my parents’ smart TV because quite frankly, it sucks really bad. The Crunchyroll app is pretty garbage (to be fair, the Crunchyroll app on PS4 is also garbage). And the general consensus is to never use the built-in media player on smart TVs, because eventually the hardware will show its age and no longer be able to support the newer OS versions. And then what? Get rid of the entire TV for a new one because it can’t run the latest OS? It’s easier and cheaper to just upgrade your Fire TV or Chromecast than the whole TV. So why have something installed if I’m never going to use it?

    And then came the Roku

    And then I decided “I wonder if I could make it more TV-like. 🤔” I settled on Roku players, because:

    • They’re pretty mobile OS agnostic, but support iDevices pretty darn well.
    • I have a laptop made by Apple, a phone made by Apple and 2 tablets made by Apple. Music streaming service is also from Apple, so I think it’s not a bad idea to have a little brand name variety. (Smart speakers aren’t made by Apple btw, but had to feed money to Bezos to get them. But they work well with Rokus 👍).

    I went with the Streaming Stick 4K. The monitor I just bought has 2 HDMI ports, which is great because I put my spare HDMI switch down somewhere and it disappeared. D: And here is where the fun starts.

    Things I learned

    When I first tried turning off the streaming stick with the remote, it said something about enabling CEC on the “TV” with instructions to go to a help article on their site. (So when powered off, the TV would also turn off along with the Roku. And if you turned on the Roku, the HDMI input would automatically change over to the port the Roku was plugged into.) So this was enabled by going into the TV settings (in the TV’s OS). I thought I would find this under the monitor settings, but no dice.

    And also, it wanted me to turn on ARC, which lets the player control the speakers. But uhhh….yeah, found no such thing. So, the sound comes through the speakers quite well. I just can’t control the volume with the remote. I have to adjust it with the monitor’s built-in toggle. (Luckily, I’m sitting right in front of it whenever I use it, because bed is too faraway, so reaching over to adjust it isn’t the worst.)

    Because there is no CEC support, I can’t actually turn off the Roku. I found that I can just let it go to sleep. Eventually, the monitor goes to sleep as well and when I want to watch something, I just need to press the OK button (right in the middle of the D-pad on the remote) to wake it up. The power button will just be ignored.

    You know, most modern game consoles have media players built right in?

    The only game console I have is the Switch (and before that, I was 100% a PC gamer). And it’s like I can find a PS5 or XBOX Series S/X right now. :/

    TL;DR

    So yes, this is possible. But here are some things to think about first:

    If you want sound, either:

    • find a monitor with built-in speakers (with fancy ARC support, if you want to control the volume through your HDMI device)
    • use a media player with a built-in speaker (ex. Roku Streambar). Someone did just that and found it worked great.
    • get an audio extractor, which is like a splitter but for HDMI and audio ports, and then plug the speakers of your choice into the audio ports

    If you want your media player to control HDMI on your monitor, look for a monitor with CEC support. Apparently, they exist(ed–post was 3 years ago, so dunno if they still do). Otherwise, when you’re not using the media player, let it (and the monitor go to sleep) and when you want to use it, press OK on the remote. If you want it to turn off right away (because let’s say, the monitor is in your room and you want to sleep without this bright-ass display glaring at you for ~10 minutes), you can just physically turn off the monitor itself.

    (Sidenote: A lot of HDMI monitors support DDC/CI as an alternative. It’s what makes the monitor plug and play, instead of the user having to install drivers. The monitor supports it, but apparently neither the Nintendo Switch nor Roku devices know what to do with it.)

    [EDIT: 2021/11/27] Updated to mention that fancy ARC support (or whatever it’s called) is needed if you want to control the volume with your HDMI device (Switch or media player). Barebones ARC support is what lets HDMI send audio signals to the display. (source: Wikipedia)

  • Australia’s answer to online abuse

    The Australian federal government is planning to de-anonymize the internet to introduce a social credit system to combat “online abuse” – police will have access to individuals’ social media accounts, which will be linked to people’s passports. pic.twitter.com/C2ZsYZjEGH

    — LADY AMINA (@Alpha_Mind7) September 2, 2021

    This was about 6 months ago and supposedly hasn’t gone anywhere, but…Black Mirror anyone?

  • Loads and Loads of Inodes

    Loads and Loads of Inodes

    Ever log into your cPanel (/whatever backend interface your host gave you for managing your websites) and noticed you had high inode usage?

    For me, I found an abnormal number of inodes in…

    • my default email account (the one that never gets used except for server info like cron jobs, etc)
    • ~/tmp directory

    Cleaning both of them out brought the % of inodes from 90% to…9%. Ayup, big difference.

    What are inodes? 🤔

    Inodes are defined here:

    An inode represents each file stored from your account. Every email, website page, image, etc. is one inode and that reflects the total number of files you can store on your hosting service.

    Hawkhost Help Center
  • I now use a VPN for all my devices

    All because of this. Earlier I was using the built-in VPN that came with Opera, but since I sometimes use browsers for other things, I wanted a VPN to cover all web browsing activity (and I am a bit leery of free VPNs). So I bit the bullet and got a year of Private Internet Access. So far so good, though I’m noticing some problems…

    Windows 10 only:

    • On startup, after Windows fully boots, it takes a REALLY long time for it to load and start. The first 5 times or so I tried to get it running manually (even though it’s supposed to start automatically), it would take a while to connect, then disconnect. And other times, the software/launcher thing just wouldn’t start. I eventually got it running and connected.

    Android (not sure about iOS):

    • Pokemon Go does not work with a VPN. :/ Each time I tried to get it running, it would say “Cannot login”, and the retry button would loop back to the “Cannot login” error message. Turning off the VPN lets me in the game. (Ingress, PoGo’s predecessor has no problems with a VPN, but it also runs on older code.)
      • There is a setting in the PIA app where you can exclude certain apps like PoGo from the VPN. I tried it, and it sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t. Not sure if it’s a VPN issue or what.

    Windows 10 Mobile:

    • There is no PIA app for W10M, so I had to enter the settings in manually under Settings > Network & Wireless > VPN. One of the biggest problems is that after a few minutes, the VPN disconnects. I found that the VPN can stay connected much longer if I turn off wi-fi (and leave it running on data), and then turn it back on. But it only stays connected for less than 8 hours. It seems to me to be more of a W10M thing than a PIA thing. I don’t think people should have to do these workarounds for something so simple as keeping their VPN connected, so hopefully MS will fix this soon.

    iOS only:

    • Just after I put PIA on my iPad Mini, and let it go into sleep mode, I woke it up and saw that the VPN had disconnected. Lolwut. I turned it back on, and haven’t had problems with it disconnecting since.

    (FYI, I didn’t link to PIA’s site, since I didn’t want it to seem like I was endorsing them, though you can find them by Googling them. They seem to work the best for me, but might not be the case for everyone else–ex. they don’t have a trial version available, and only a 7 day window where you can get a refund if you don’t like it. So you only have 7 days to decide if it’s what you really want. If you’re looking for a VPN, check out this chart that someone made, with a detailed breakdown of each VPN’s strengths and weaknesses. Also you can check out r/VPN for more info on VPNs.)